A Pesky Question

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"Paper or plastic?" seems like such an innocuous phrase, but it drives me to distraction sometimes. Usually because it is asked of me at only one place, at a local upscale supermarket near my home, and is usually mangled to sound something like "Pay-paa oru puraschteek?"

This is because it's almost always uttered by one of a host of middle aged japanese female store clerks with poor English.

It's not the bad pronunciation that bothers me. It's a whole different set of reasons.

First is that the only reason these ladies are pressed into saying these awkward and syllabically memorized phrases is the parade of witless foreigners who often shop at this particular supermarket. I'm sure that in the past each of them has had the experience of asking バッグは紙かビニールどちらになさいますか?(bagu wa kami ka biniru dochira ni nasaimaska?) and been met with a blank stare or the too loud "I DON'T UNDERSTAND YOU" or "DO YOU SPEAK ENGLISH" or possibly the most perplexing answer to "paper of plastic," "YES".

This kind of foreigner seems to abound around here. I see them in Starbucks (always and only Starbucks) ordering in obnoxiously loud English as if they were in the middle of Toledo and not Yokohama. They rarely venture from their little expat community and seem to have no interest in learning even the slightest bit of Japanese. This is really pitiful to me. I understand that many of them were dragged over here with their spouses work, but like it or not, they're in Japan and it seems incumbent to learn at least a little Japanese. There are people all over the world who would love a chance to learn a new language while being immersed in the country that speaks it. But these people seem to view it as a terrible inconvenience rather than an opportunity.

I'm not saying I expect everyone who comes to Japan to be able to talk politics with the old men in the park, just that by spending a modicum of time learning survival and everyday phrases their and the natives they interact with would have a much more enjoyable time.

I've seen this species of the mono-lingual ugly American in almost every country I've lived in, and the only thing I can think to explain it is our complete lack of second-language education in grade schools. Not only do these foreigners not know how to speak another language, they wouldn't even know how to go about starting to learn it.

So I know this is the background from which the cashier asks me in poor English "paper or plastic?" The last 6 foreigners before me didn't speak a lick of Japanese, so why should I?

But now I'm in a bit of a conundrum. Clearly, I speak English, so the obvious thing is to say "plastic." But this rankles me to no end. For one thing, I want to show the cashiers that not all foreigners are arrogant know-nothings, some of us really want to be here and learn more about the culture and language. Plus, I worked my ass off to learn Japanese and it's lame to not use it with someone who would obviously be more comfortable speaking their own tongue.

So my other option is to answer in Japanese, "ビニールでお願いします." (Bini-ru de onegaishimasu). Then we're into this weird parody conversation where the Japanese person is speaking English and the gai-jin is speaking Japanese. Plus, the lady has gone out of her way to speak to me in English, and I have successfully understood her, so why would I switch to Japanese? Isn't that kind of an asshole thing to do?

I feel like answering in English is supporting a system of coddling foreigners who should learn the language of the country they live in, while answering in Japanese is a slap in the face of the staff who are going out of their way to be helpful.

Sometimes I go with English and sometimes Japanese, but either way I never feel good about my choice.

The nice thing is that this whole situation dissipates when I remember to bring my eco-bag.

15 comments:

melodie said...

i am relieved that someone could scrub a bit of the stereotype off. Unfortunately the image you provided in your post is how i assumed most Americans were like...

dara said...

Why not say both? "Um, yes, plastic. . .then whatever it is in japanese."

I sort of do that in Starbucks - "Um, yes, grande . . . medium. . ." mumble mumble

Snarkypuss said...

How about saying, in Japanese and with a smile, "Thank you for speaking in English in case I didn't understand Japanese, I would like paper, please"? I don't think it is assholey to switch into the country's language when you know it, but it gets you past that with politeness and an acknowledgement that they've done you a service if you feel awkward doing it.

I tend to try to learn a few phrases when I travel, including "Not really, only a tiny little bit and with a terrible accent!" for when they feign surprise and say "You speak *insert language here*?", by which they always mean "Thank you for your mangled attempt at my language, now how about we speak English because I manage that infinitely better?"

Patrick said...

Ha ha, this is turning into a Shakespearean monologue with the bagging lady. When I'm in a good playful mood I'll try your approach Snarkypuss.

Snarkypuss said...

Don't be daft. The Shakespearean version would go somewhat along the lines of:

"Forsooth, dear Baggage, thou doest me a great service in thine attitude and graceful speech in the tongue of mine own sweet mother. I wouldst we speak in dialects more becoming of our Oriental setting and beseech of thee paper, sweet maiden."

Or summat.

But in iambic pentameter.

Nate said...

ha ha @ snarkypuss I hadn't scrolled down all the way and was like "WRONG, no iambic pentameter" I'm such a jerk lol.

Really funny though I loved it and I agree.

Or Patrick you could in Japanese to them go "You speak english?!?" And then start rambling on in English until they stop you haha.

Anonymous said...

After living in Japan for as long as you have,

1) Which is more correct, Nihon or Nippon?

and

2) Do you still have an "american" accent when you speak Japanese, or are you fairly grounded and people would think, "Wow, he actually speaks quite well"?

Patrick said...

Re: Anon. questions

Nihon is generally used for usual conversation, Nippon is used for emphatic situations like cheering for the national soccer team. This changes a bit by region though. Stick with Nihon and you'll always be safe. You gotta understand for Japanese people the voiced and unvoiced consonant are the same word. For example the word "street" (tori). Tori and dori are switched out freely, same for "tofu" and "dofu," "sushi" and "zushi" There's a rule for it but it's too technical for this format.

Re: my accent, if I try really hard I can put on a convincing Japanese accent that will fool people on the phone, but I'm usually too lazy for that, so I just keep it natural which means I have an american accent. The trick is to have an accent that's more melodious than thick. Just think how nice it is to hear English spoken well with a slight foreign accent. That's the range I try to hit.

If you want to hear my lazy Japanese you can watch "Approaching Zazen" in Japanese at this link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_coM_KjUi8&feature=channel_page

Anonymous said...

Oh, what lovely Japanese, Patrick. You sound quite good at it. A true Japanese lifetime lies ahead of you! [/fortune cookie]

Anonymous said...

Is Japanese sushi actually far better than Americans make sushi?

Also, what is very typical for japanese people to eat in everyday life? (For example, americans eat lots of sandwiches/salads or something).

Stratus said...

You rock patrick!

hm.. I'm going to be in Japan for like 2 weeks in June, I'm already slogging through "Japanese for Busy People", but it seems i'm far too dense to remember anything :-( Something in my brain keeps trying to speak French - ?!

I reckon if I can just learn: Please, thank you, your welcome, I'd like some sake please, Nice to meet you, and Where can I find a public toilet? - I'll be set.

right now I'm working on remembering "Hajimemashte. Watashi wa (---) des. Canada kera keemas"

Man.. JR Rail passes are expensive! I wonder if renting a car is do-able and any cheaper.

Patrick said...

Re: Anon questions:

Sushi in Japan isn't better or worse it's just more Japanese. Meaning it's more fishy and simple. If you've grown up with American sushi you'll probably prefer that. I do.

A typical Japanese diet consists of rice, miso soup, and various lightly flavored seafood and seasonal vegetable dishes. This traditional style is being quickly pushed out by McDonalds et al however.

Patrick said...

re: Stratus

Everything in Japan is expensive. The Rail Pass is actually one of the best deals going, take advantage of it.

Rod said...

What's also funny is seeing foreigners coming to the US and speaking better English than some of the people actually living here. I'm thinking of Scandinavians in particular. I've met a few that spoke English extremely well and better than some Americans. The only thing that stood out was the lack of an American accent.
Oh and I also hate it when I forget my Eco-bags at home when I go out to shop too.

Serenity said...

I don't know how the etiquette is in a supermarket or grocery store in Japan, but maybe when you go up the the cashier greet them in Japanese and since you sound probably less awkward speaking Japanese than most foreigners it'll clue the person that you understand Japanese and there won't be any embarrassment for you or them to speak in Japanese.